Rigid Chevron Stitch

Multiple of 12 sts (add 3 for base chain)

Row 1: Skip 3 ch (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next ch, *1dc in:to each of next 3ch, [over next 2ch work dc2tog] twice, 1dc into each of the next 3 ch, [2dc into next dc] twice; rep from * ending last rep with 2dc once only into last ch, turn

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into 1st st, always inserting hook into back loop only of each st *1dc into each of next 3 sts, [over next 2 sts work dc2tog] twice, 1dc into each of next 3sts, [2dc into next st] twice; rep from * ending last rep with 2dc once only into top of tch (turn chain), turn

Rep Row 2 as needed

Simple Marguerite Stitch

Multiples of 2 sts +1 (add 2 for base chain)

Special Abbreviation: M3C = Marguerite cluster with 3 spike loops

Row 1: M3C (Make a spike loop [i.e. yo and draw through] into 2nd, 3rd, and 5th chs from hook, yo and through all 4 loops), *ch1, make 1 M3C picking up 1 loop in ch that closed previous M3C, 2nd loop in same place as last spike of previous M3C, skip 1 ch, then last loop in next ch, yo and through all 4 loops; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: Ch3, make 1M3C picking up loops in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook and in ch that closed 2nd M3C on previous row, *ch1, work 1M3C picking up 1st loop in ch that closed previous M3C, 2nd loop in the same place as last spike of previous M3C and last loop in ch that closed next M3C on previous row; rep from * to end, picking up final loop in top of ch at beginning of previous row.

Rep row 2 until you reach your finished size.

Boxed Shell Stitch

Multiples of 5 sts + 2 (add 2 for base chains)

Row 1 (RS): Skip 3 ch (count as 1dc). 1dc into next ch, *ch3, skip 3 ch, 1dc into each of next 2 ch; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: Ch3 (count as 1dc), skip 1st st, *5dc into 2nd ch of next ch-3 arch; rep from *, ending 1dc into top of tch, turn.

Row 3: Ch3 (count as 1dc), skip 1st st, 1dc into next dc, *ch3, skip 3 dc, 1dc into each of next 2 dc; rep from * to end, turn

Repeat rows 2-3 to reach desired length.

500 Crochet Stitches

500 Crochet Stitches : The Ultimate Crochet Stitch Bible

My copy is from August 2015 printed by the St Martin’s Griffin Books.

It has been my go to for when I want to try a new stitch or even remembering a stitch that I haven’t used in a long time or that often. Anytime I get asked about crochet books and what I recommend to anyone looking to start of even add to their crochet collection, it’s this.

It has great descriptions for what tools as needed for crochet and the basics that every crocheter should know. My favorite part though is the visuals. Between the photos and the graphs, it’s among the best of stitch books that I have ever seen.

I believe I got my copy at my local Barnes and Noble, but I do know that it available on Amazon as well.

Note: I am not getting paid for this review, nor was I asked to write it.

The Basics

I owe all of you an apology. In the last, almost, 4 years of this blog I have never actually explained how to do the most basic of crochet stitches. These stitches, of which there are 6, are in just about every crochet pattern in the world. To avoid confusion, I will be explaining these in American Terms.

CHAIN STITCH: yarn over and draw the yarn through to form a loop without tightening up the previous one. Repeat to form as many chain as the pattern calls for. Do not count the slip knot at the beginning as a stitch.

*this descriptions are assuming they are being started at the beginning of a starting chain*

SLIP STITCH: insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, *yarn over and draw the yarn through both the work and the loop on the hook at the same time. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, repeat from *

SINGLE CROCHET: insert hook into the second chain from the hook, *yarn over and pull the yarn through the work only. Yarn over again and draw the yarn through both loops on the hook. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, repeat from *

HALF-DOUBLE CROCHET: yarn over and insert hook into the third chain from the hook. *Yarn over and draw through the work only. Yarn over again and draw through all three loops on the hook. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, repeat from *

DOUBLE CROCHET: yarn over and insert hook into the forth chain from the hook. *Yarn over and draw through the work only. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through the last two loops on the the hook. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, repeat from *

TREBLE CROCHET: Yarn over twice, insert hook into the fifth chain from the hook. Yarn over and draw through the work only. Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops. Yarn over again and draw through the next two loops. Yarn over again and draw through the last two loops on the hook. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, repeat from *

The Sweater Curse

For those of you not in the Fiber Arts Community, or those of you just delving into the Fiber Arts World, The Boyfriend Sweater Curse is, in simple terms, where you make something for you significant other, you give it to them, and they break up with you shortly after.

This originally was a knitting term, but has since grown to include crocheting, and other fiber arts. The Sweater Curse is used to describe the belief that if a hand-made sweater made/given to a significant other, it will lead to the recipient breaking up with the knitter/crocheter.

There was actually a poll done in 2005, 15% of active knitters experienced this sweater curse first hand, and 41% considered it a very real possibility.

There are many proposed mechanisms for this curse. Among them are unlucky timing, a rescue mission (for the relationship), a feeling of insufficient gratitude, and possible new interests on the side of the intended recipient.

Most knitters/crocheter who truly believe in the curse waiting until after marriage before they gift a sweater.

While I personally, have not experienced the curse, I’ve come close a few times. I also know people who have experienced this curse themselves.

What about you, have you experienced it?

Crochet Classifications


We spoke in a previous article about the past and the present changes in crochet. And if indeed it should still be called crochet since the art form…and indeed the needles used are very different today then the traditional needles and threads used. In Textile History in 2018 was a wonderful article call Defining Crochet by Cary Karp. Mr. Karp is a retired museum curator based in Sweden who now serves as Director of Internet Strategy and Technology at the Swedish Museum of Natural History, International Council of Museums.


It’s an 18 page article in case you go searching for it and want to know if you’ve got the right article. He writes;


Textile classification systems differentiate between the looped structures that characterize the present-day crafts of knitting and crochet. Printed sources prior to the early ninetieth century do not make this distinction, labeling fabric of either structure as knitting, thereby obscuring references to what would not be termed crochet. These can be identified in published instructions, nonetheless, with the prescribed use of a single hook being a ready indicator. Although looping does not inherently require tools and some structures can be made with alternative techniques, certain forms of crochet-type looping depend on the design of the books used to produce them, the typology of such implements provide a framework for tracing the convergence of the precursors of modern crochet into the craft.


What he is specifically talking about is the most relevant consequence of classifying crochet as a ‘double interloped structure’ is that single row of chain stitches is not crochet, and can only become so when a second row of stitches is worked in into the chain. If that second row consists of a plain crochet stitch worked into every stitch in the chain, with successive rows produced in the same manner, the resulting fabric is now commonly termed slip-stitch crochet — the least complex form of closed work. If the stitches in the second row are not worked into every stitch in the chain, forming instead sequences of shorter chains attached to the growing fabric at intervals, the result is termed openwork
crochet. Its simplest regular form is an arched (or diamond) mesh, made by affixing
the end of each sequence of chains in the current row to the midpoint of the adjacent
sequence in the previous row.


This may seem like a lot to bear but this is crochet in two forms. These rows can be independent from each other whereas knit is dependent upon each other. This is a huge defining only because until as recently as the 1890’s crochet fell under the heading knitting. It’s also an important distinction because its really the only one you can use. There are so many different needles in both crafts in the past and the present that defining it by needle may prove far more difficult and you could end up with many more yarn craft types.


This necessitates a subjective judgement about whether craft identity or structural detail is the primary factor in the generic classification of an individual example of such work. The range of slip-stitch traditions also suggests craft identity to be of importance when categorizing that material. Although a specimen of fabric does not necessarily reveal the tool(s) used to produce it, much less the associated terms of art, such information is easily conveyed in a written description. The pre-nineteenth-century texts uniformly treat the closed-work slip-stitch structure made with a hook as a form of knitting, and not a discrete craft. The authors would have been no less able to perceive the morphological distinction between the crochet and knitting types of interlooping than we are, but ascribe no nomenclatural significance to it. They use the term knitting in the sense that Emery defines as interlooping, without subdividing it by the way the loops are interworked.


Added historical detail from 1844: Crochet — a species of knitting originally practiced by the peasants in Scotland, with a small hooked needle called a shepherd’s hook — has within the last seven years, aided by taste and fashion, obtained the preference over all other ornamental work of a similar nature. It derives its present name from the French; the instrument with which it is worked, being by them, from its crooked shape, termed ‘crochet’. This art has attained its highest degree of perfection in England, whence it has been transplanted to France and Germany, and both these countries, although unjustifiably, have claimed the invention.

Tea Time Ruffle

Tea Time Ruffle

Originally published in Star Doily Book number 143: Ruffled Doilies, circa late 1950s

Materials Required: AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY The Famous “PURITAN” STAR SPANGLED MERCERIZED CROCHET COTTON, Article 401 ball each Silver Spangle and Pink Spangle Approximate size: 10¼ inches in diameteror The Famous “PURITAN” MERCERIZED CROCHET COTTON, Article 401 ball each White and Pink or colors of your choice. Approximate size: 9¼ inches in diameter, Steel crochet hook No. 6

With Silver Spangle or White chain (ch) 8, join to form a ring, * ch 12, single crochet (sc) in ring, repeat from * 6 times, ch 6, double treble crochet ([d tr c] 3 times over hook) in ring, this brings thread into position for next round.

2nd Round. Ch 3, 2 double crochet (dc) in same loop, * ch 8, 3 dc in next loop, repeat from * 6 times, ch 4, treble crochet (tr c) in 3rd stitch (st) of ch.

3rd Round. Ch 3, 2 dc in same loop, * ch 7, sc in center dc of next dc group, ch 7, 3 dc in next loop, repeat from * 6 times, ch 7, sc in center dc of next dc group, ch 7, join in 3rd st of ch.

4th Round. Ch 5, skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 10, slip stitch (sl st) in 5th st from hook for picot, ch 5, sc in next dc, repeat from beginning all around ending to correspond, join.

5th Round. Sl st to loop, ch 3, 2 dc in same loop, * ch 7, sc in next loop to right of picot, sc in next loop to left of picot, keeping picot in front of work ch 7, 3 dc in next loop, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, join in 3rd st of ch.

6th Round. Ch 3, 2 dc in same space, * ch 7, skip next dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch 7, 1 sc in each of the next 2 SC, ch 7, 3 dc in next dc, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, join.

Continuation from page 15

7th Round. Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sl st in sc for picot, ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, sc in next loop, ch 10, sl st in 5th st from hook for picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, join.

8th Round. Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * ch 5, 3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc in picot, ch 5, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, sc in next loop, ch 4, 1 dc in 4th st from hook, sc in same loop to right of picot, sc in next loop to left of picot, ch 4, 1 dc in 4th st from hook, sc in same loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, join.

9th Round. Ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, ** ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 5, sl st in sc for picot, ch 3, 2 tr c in next loop, * ch 2, 2 tr c in same loop, repeat from * 3 times, ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 5, sl st in sc for picot, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 3, skip next sc and next loop, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, join.

10th Round. Ch 4, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 dc, ** ch 4, sc in next loop to right of picot, sc in next loop to left of picot, ch 4, ** 2 tr c in next loop, * ch 2, 2 tr c in same loop, repeat from * once, ch 2, repeat from 2nd ** 3 times ending with ch 4 instead of ch 2, sc in next loop to right of picot, sc in next loop to left of picot, ch 4, 1 tr c in each of the next 6 dc, repeat from 1st ** all around ending to correspond, join, cut thread.

11th Round. Attach Pink in joining, ch 4, 6 tr c in same space, ch 3, skip next 2 loops, * 2 tr c in next loop, ch 2, 2 tr c in same loop, ch 2, repeat from * 9 times, 2 tr c, ch 2, 2 tr c in next loop, ch 3, skip next 2 loops, 7 tr c in space between next 2 groups of tr c, complete round to correspond, join in 4th st of ch.

12th Round. Sl st to center tr c, ** ch 2, 1 dc in same space, 1 sc in same space, ch 3, sc in next loop, * ch 3, 2 tr c in next loop, ch 5, sl st in top of tr c for picot, 2 tr c in same loop, ch 3, sc in next loop, repeat from * 10 times, ch 3, sc in center tr c of next tr c group, repeat from ** all around, ending to correspond, join, cut thread.

Blossom Ruffle

From Star Doily Book 143: Ruffled Doilies. First published in the late 1950s

Materials Required:AMERICAN THREAD COMPANYThe Famous “PURITAN” MERCERIZED CROCHET COTTON, Article 404 balls White, Cream or EcruSteel crochet hook No. 7Approximate size: 17½ inches in diameter without ruffle

Chain (ch) 5, join to form a ring, ch 1 and work 8 single crochet (sc) in ring, join in 1st sc.

2nd Round. Ch 3, double crochet (dc) in same space, * ch 3, 2 dc in next sc keeping last loop of each dc on hook, thread over and work off all loops at one time, repeat from * 6 times, ch 3, join.

3rd Round. Slip stitch (sl st) into loop, ch 4, treble crochet (tr c) in same space, ch 2, 2 tr c in same space, * ch 2, 2 tr c, ch 2, 2 tr c in next loop, repeat from * all around, ch 2, join in 4th st of ch.

4th Round. Ch 4, tr c in same space, * tr c in next tr c, ch 2, tr c in next tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 5, 2 tr c in next tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

5th Round. Ch 4, 1 tr c in each of the next 3 tr c, * 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c keeping last loop of each tr c on hook, thread over and work off all loops at one time (2 tr c cluster), ch 5, 2 tr c in center st of next loop, ch 5, 2 tr c cluster over next 2 tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join in 1st tr c.

6th Round. Ch 4, 1 tr c in each of the next 3 sts keeping last loop of each tr c on hook, thread over and work off all loops at one time, * ch 5, skip 1 loop, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, 3 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, ch 3, 4 tr c cluster over next tr c group, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 3, join in 1st cluster.

7th Round. Sl st to next tr c, ch 4, tr c in next tr c, * ch 3, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c, ch 2, 1 tr c in next tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 2, skip 1 loop, tr c in next loop, ch 5, tr c in next loop, ch 2, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 2, join in 4th st of ch.

8th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, * ch 2, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 4 tr c in next loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 4, skip 1 loop, tr c in next loop, ch 4, skip next tr c and next loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 4, join in 4th st of ch.

9th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, ch 3, * 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 4 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, skip 1 loop, tr c in next loop, ch 3, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, ch 3, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, join.

10th Round. Ch 4, tr c in same space, * ch 3, 3 tr c in next tr c, ch 4, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 4, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, ch 4, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 4, tr c in next loop, ch 4, skip 1 loop, 2 tr c in next tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 4, join.

11th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, * ch 3, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c, ch 2, 1 tr c in next tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 5, skip 1 loop, tr c in next loop, ch 5, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 5, tr c in next loop, ch 5, tr c in next loop, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from * all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

12th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, ** ch 3, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 4 tr c in next loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * twice, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

13th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, ** ch 3, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 4 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * twice, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

14th Round. Ch 4, tr c in next tr c, ** ch 5, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 5, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, ch 5, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * twice, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

15th Round. Ch 4, 2 tr c in same space, ** ch 2, 3 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, ch 5, tr c in next loop, ch 5, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * 4 times, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 3 tr c in next tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

16th Round. Ch 4, tr c in same space, ** 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 4 tr c in next loop, 1 tr c in each of the next 2 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 5, skip 1 loop, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * 5 times, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 2 tr c in next tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

17th Round. Ch 4, tr c in same space, ** 1 tr c in each of the next 4 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, 2 tr c in next tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * 5 times, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 2 tr c in next tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.3

Blossom Ruffle

18th Round. Ch 4, 4 tr c cluster over next 4 tr c, ** ch 5, 1 tr c in each of the next 5 tr c, ch 5, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, ch 3, tr c in next loop, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * 5 times, ch 5, skip 1 loop, 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, repeat from ** all around ending to correspond, ch 5, join.

19th Round. Sl st into loop, ch 9, ** 5 tr c cluster over next 5 tr c, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * 9 times, ch 5, repeat from ** all around ending last repeat with ch 2, dc in 4th st of ch (this brings thread in position for next round).

20th Round. Ch 10, tr c in next loop, * ch 6, tr c in next loop, repeat from * all around ending with ch 3, dc in 4th st of ch.

21st Round. Ch 4, tr c in same space, * ch 5, tr c in next loop, repeat from * all around, ch 5, join.

22nd Round. Start ruffle: sl st to next loop, * ch 10, sc in same loop, ch 10, sc in same loop, ch 10, sc in same loop, ch 10, sc in next loop, repeat from * all around ending with ch 5, double treble crochet ([d tr c] 3 times over hook) in same space as beginning.

23rd Round. * Ch 10, sc in next loop, repeat from * all around ending with ch 5, d tr c in d tr c.

Repeat the last round 9 times.

Next Round. ** Ch 5, 5 tr c cluster st in next loop (5 tr c cluster st: 5 tr c in same space keeping last loop of each tr c on hook, thread over and work off all loops at one time), ch 4, sl st in top of cluster st for picot, ch 3, 5 tr c in same loop, ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each of the last 5 tr c just made, ch 3, turn, 1 tr c in each of the next 3 sc keeping last loop of each tr c on hook, thread over and work off all loops at one time, ch 4, sl st in top of tr c cluster just made for picot, ch 4, sl st in last sc, ch 3, 5 tr c cluster st in same loop, ch 4, sl st in top of cluster st just made for picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, * ch 9, sl st in 5th st from hook for picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, repeat from * 8 times, repeat from ** all around, join, cut thread.

Starburst Ruffle

Sunburst Ruffle

Originally published in the Star Doily Book #143 : Ruffled Doilies circa later 1950s

Materials Required: AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY The Famous “PURITAN” STAR SPANGLED MERCERIZED CROCHET COTTON, Article 402 balls each Silver Spangle, Sunshine Spangle, Chartreuse Spangle and Green Spangle Approximate size: 16½ inches in diameter or The Famous “PURITAN” MERCERIZED CROCHET COTTON, Article 401 ball each White, Buttercup, Chartreuse and Forest Green Approximate size: 15½ inches in diameter Steel Crochet hook No. 7

With Silver Spangle or White chain (ch) 8, join to form a ring, * ch 5, sc in ring, repeat from * 4 times.

2nd Round. Ch 2, 3 sc in 1st loop, * ch 6, 3 sc in next loop, repeat from * 3 times.

3rd Round. * Ch 6, skip next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 3 sc in next loop, repeat from * 4 times.

4th Round. * Ch 6, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in each sc, 3 sc. in next loop, repeat from * 4 times. Repeat the last round always skipping the 1st sc of each sc group and working 3 sc in each loop until there are 10 rounds of sc and 21 sc in each solid section.

12th Round. * Ch 6, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sc, ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 4 times.

13th Round. * Ch 6, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 15 sc, ch 6, sc in next loop, ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 4 times.

14th Round. ** Ch 6, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, * ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * twice, repeat from ** 4 times.

15th Round. ** Ch 6, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc, ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 3 times, repeat from ** 4 times.

Continuation from page 15

16th Round. ** Ch 6, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, * ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 4 times, repeat from ** 4 times.

17th Round. Ch 4, skip 1 sc, double crochet (dc) in next sc, * ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, repeat from * once, ch 4, sc in next loop, * ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 4 times, repeat from beginning 3 times, ch 4, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 4, sc in next loop, * ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 3 times.

18th Round. Ch 5, dc in next loop, * ch 3, dc in next loop, repeat from * twice, ch 5, sc in next loop, * ch 6, sc in next loop, repeat from * 3 times, repeat from beginning 4 times, but ending last repeat with ch 2, dc in center of 1st loop (this brings thread in position for next round).

19th Round. Ch 12, sc in same loop where last dc was worked, * ch 12, sc in next loop, repeat from * all around ending with ch 12, join.

20th Round. Ch 1 and work 17 sc over each loop, join.

21st Round. Ch 1 and working in back loop of sts, * 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 7 sc, skip 2 sc, repeat from * all around, join. Repeat the last round for remainder of doily working 4 more rounds Silver Spangle or White, 6 rounds Sunshine Spangle or Buttercup, 6 rounds Chartreuse, 6 rounds Green, join, cut thread.

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