Brewing Creativity: Tea Blends to Spark Your Imagination

At Octojelly Crochet Studio, LLC, we believe that creativity and comfort go hand-in-hand. As you dive into your latest crochet project, a cup of tea can be your best companion, not only for its soothing qualities but also for its ability to boost your creative thinking. In this blog post, we explore some of the best tea blends that can help spark your imagination and enhance your creative endeavors.

Why Tea and Creativity Go Hand-in-Hand

It’s no secret that the right environment can significantly impact your creative output. Tea has been celebrated for centuries for its calming and stimulating effects. The unique combination of L-theanine and caffeine found in tea provides a gentle energy boost without the jitteriness often associated with coffee. According to a study published in the journal Psychopharmacology, this duo can improve cognitive performance and creativity. Let’s delve into some specific tea blends that can help you unlock your creative potential.

Top Tea Blends for Enhancing Creativity

1. Green Tea

Green tea is renowned for its myriad health benefits, but did you know it can also be a potent creativity booster? The high levels of L-theanine in green tea promote alpha brain waves, which are associated with a relaxed yet alert mental state—perfect for creative tasks. One of our favorite green tea blends is Jasmine Green Tea, which combines the soothing aroma of jasmine flowers with the invigorating qualities of green tea.

2. Yerba Mate

Originating from South America, Yerba Mate is often referred to as the “drink of the gods” due to its energizing properties. It’s rich in antioxidants and provides a smooth, focused energy that can help you stay in the creative zone for longer periods. A popular blend is Mint Yerba Mate, which adds a refreshing twist to the traditional yerba mate flavor.

3. Rooibos Tea

If you’re looking for a caffeine-free option that still boosts creativity, Rooibos is an excellent choice. This South African red tea is packed with antioxidants and has a naturally sweet, nutty flavor. We recommend a blend like Vanilla Rooibos, which combines the rich taste of rooibos with the comforting aroma of vanilla.

Other Ingredients to Look for in Creative Tea Blends

While the base tea is important, additional ingredients can also play a crucial role in enhancing creativity. Here are some key components to look out for:

  • Gingko Biloba: Known for improving memory and cognitive function.
  • Ginseng: Helps reduce stress and increase mental clarity.
  • Lavender: Promotes relaxation and can help ease creative blocks.
  • Rosemary: Enhances concentration and mental sharpness.

Sipping and Creating: The Perfect Pair

At Octojelly Crochet Studio, LLC, we encourage you to explore these tea blends as you embark on your crochet projects. Whether you’re working on one of our detailed Crochet Patterns, experimenting with new Crochet Supplies, or crafting unique Handcrafted Items, a thoughtfully chosen tea can elevate your creative experience.

In conclusion, the next time you sit down to crochet, consider brewing a cup of one of these creativity-enhancing teas. Not only will it make your crafting session more enjoyable, but it could also help you unlock new levels of imagination and innovation. Happy sipping and creating!

Pattern : AI Sitting Dragon

So, I’ve decided to delve into the world of Chat GPT, specifically, how it writes crochet patterns. Given the examples I have seen on the various social media sites over the last year, I don’t have high hopes, though I do hope it looks something like a dragon.

 

My first experiment, a simple, sitting dragon. I will post the pattern below, just in case you would like to experiment with it yourself.

 

The first piece it had me make, the body. It’s more a ball, than a body. Most basic patterns start put this way, so I’m not condemning the pattern just yet. What do you think?

 

Next up the head. The pattern does call for safety eyes ( or sewing them on with black thread), but doesn’t mention adding them until after the head has been attached. If you’ve used safety eyes before, you know that adding them before stuffing is easier that after the head has been attached to the body.

The pattern does not say where the eyes should be, so I took a guess based on my experience with making amigurumi. It also says to immediately attach the head to the body.

It kinda looks like a mini-snowman at this point. What do you think?

 

For the ears, legs, wings and horns, the full pattern says to add them after all the remaining pieces are made. The individual patterns for each piece says to attach them ass the pieces are finished.  I will probably add them as I get each set finished.

 

I made the ears and legs…it kinda reminds me of a derpy bunny at this point.  I still need to make the tail, wings and horns.

I take that back, with the tail, it looks like a derpy squirrel.

 

So it’s done.   I wouldn’t call this a dragon. Not sure what I would call it, but not a dragon.

I used light blue for the wings and “horns”. The pattern calls the horns to go on the top of the head, however, given how the pattern is “written”, they would not have sat right, so I stuck them behind the ears.

 

What do you think? What do you think it looks like?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Pattern:

**Materials:**

– Worsted weight yarn in main color (e.g., green)

– Accent color for wings, horns, and claws (e.g., purple)

– Crochet hook (size G/4.0 mm or suitable for your yarn)

– Safety eyes or black yarn for eyes

– Fiberfill stuffing

– Tapestry needle

– Stitch marker (optional)

**Abbreviations:**

– ch = chain

– sc = single crochet

– inc = increase (2 sc in the same stitch)

– dec = decrease (sc2tog, single crochet 2 together)

– st = stitch

– rnd = round

– sl st = slip stitch

**Pattern:**

### Body

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)

4. Rnd 3: (Sc 2, inc) around. (24 sts)

5. Rnd 4: (Sc 3, inc) around. (30 sts)

6. Rnd 5-10: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — Work for 6 rounds.

7. Rnd 11: (Sc 3, dec) around. (24 sts)

8. Rnd 12: (Sc 2, dec) around. (18 sts)

9. Rnd 13: (Sc 1, dec) around. (12 sts)

10. Rnd 14: Dec around. (6 sts)

11. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the body firmly as you go. Sew the opening closed.

### Head

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)

4. Rnd 3: (Sc 2, inc) around. (24 sts)

5. Rnd 4: (Sc 3, inc) around. (30 sts)

6. Rnd 5-7: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — Work for 3 rounds.

7. Rnd 8: (Sc 3, dec) around. (24 sts)

8. Rnd 9: (Sc 2, dec) around. (18 sts)

9. Rnd 10: (Sc 1, dec) around. (12 sts)

10. Rnd 11: Dec around. (6 sts)

11. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the head firmly. Attach the head to the top of the body.

### Ears (Make 2)

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)

4. Rnd 3: (Sc 2, inc) around. (24 sts)

5. Rnd 4-5: Sc in each st around. (24 sts) — Work for 2 rounds.

6. Fasten off and leave a long tail. Flatten the ear and sew it to the sides of the head.

### Legs (Make 4)

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2-4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — Work for 3 rounds.

4. Rnd 5: (Sc 1, dec) around. (8 sts)

5. Rnd 6: (Sc 2, dec) around. (6 sts)

6. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs lightly and sew them to the bottom of the body.

### Wings (Make 2)

1. **Chain 11**.

2. Row 1: Starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. (10 sts)

3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sts)

4. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, (sc 1, inc) across. (15 sts)

5. Row 4-5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (15 sts) — Work for 2 rows.

6. Fasten off and leave a long tail. Fold in half to shape the wing and sew to the back of the dragon.

### Tail

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2-4: Sc in each st around. (12 sts) — Work for 3 rounds.

4. Rnd 5: (Sc 1, dec) around. (8 sts)

5. Rnd 6-10: Sc in each st around. (8 sts) — Work for 5 rounds.

6. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly and sew to the back of the body.

### Horns (Make 2)

1. **Magic Ring**: 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)

2. Rnd 1: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

3. Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) around. (18 sts)

4. Rnd 3-4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts) — Work for 2 rounds.

5. Fasten off and leave a long tail. Sew the horns to the top of the head.

### Assembly

1. Attach safety eyes to the head or embroider eyes with black yarn.

2. Sew the ears, legs, wings, tail, and horns to their respective places.

3. Weave in any loose ends and trim excess yarn.

Your sitting dragon is now complete! You can add additional details or customize colors as you like. Enjoy your new dragon friend!

 

Is it August Already?

So…with in the next 90 days, I will have 3 events.

These will be my 3 largest and 3 final events for 2024.

The September event will also be my longest event since I started doing events in 2020.

I am planning on using all of my free time to make a lot of products, some of which will be never before seen product.

I have also started experimenting with glow-in-the-dark yarn. Pictures are coming to the social media soon.

If you are interested, I’ll be streaming tomorrow (Sunday 8/4) from about 9:30 PM until  6 AM or  until I feel like sleeping, whichever happens first.

The regular streaming schedule will start back up after the 26th of August, as that is when Quality Control will be starting 1st Grade.

I also plan on getting a regular blog schedule actually hammered out before then, too. So far, I have the tea blog done to Wednesdays, and the Fact/Opinion days are on Fridays, but I’m debating moving those to Saturdays.

What do you think?

Customer Expectations and the Reality of Crochet

For the purposes of this particular post, I’ll be using my own materials and products as examples, since these are what I am most familiar with.

Also, before I really get into the topic of this post, I want to make 1 thing very, very clear. Crochet CAN NOT be done by machine, this has been proven many, many times.

 

Places like Amazon have made the population come to expect a quick turn around when it comes to ordering product. Places like Temu have taught people that they get get things for dirt cheap costs. Crochet is not either of these things.  If it is, looking at you fast fashion, chances are that it either, isn’t real crochet or the person who did make it, was severely underpaid.

Time:

Crochet, especially custom/bespoke crochet can have a long turn around. A typical amigurumi can take me up to a week, and a blanket, depending on the size that take anywhere from 3 week to a year. Factors that add to the time frame, can include a full-time, non-crochet related job, kids, and regular day-to-day life.

An example of this, are the dragons I make. They take me, if I don’t get interrupted, roughly 6 hours to make. I discovered because I did one, start to finish, on a Twitch stream back in October of 2023. It usually take a week to make one of these because, unless I want to sacrifice sleep, I don’t have 6 hours to just sit and crochet in a single day. With a fulltime job and a 6 year old boy who was recently diagnosed with ADHD I have a lot going on. There are also household chores and keeping up with my personal relationships.

Shipping also can add time to the piece as it can take me a few days to get the piece packaged up and dropped off to the post office. It’s a big reason why I, personally, have designated shipping days.

 

Cost:

Let’s discuss the cost of a crochet piece.

Personally, I under price my work. I have 2 reasons for that. The first is, I still have big doubts about my skills. I’m a left handed person who crochets with my right, and also crochets backwards. The second reason has to do with where I live. If I were to price my pieces what they are actually worth, I would never have any buyers. Nobody in my area of the United States, or even my area of Virginia would be able to afford my work.

The dragons go for $20 on my website.This is definitely less than they should be. I typically use DK yarns that sell for between $25 and $35 a hank. For simplicity’s sake, let’s saw the red for this one was $30. I can get 2 dragons out of 1 hank. The white on the back was already in my stash, so lets say I used $0.50 of the white. We’re up to $15.50 in just materials so far. The safety eyes are from a multi pack that cost about $15, which means this set is $0.20. I’ll had $2.50 for the fluff since it came out of a 20lb box that I paid $55 dollars for.  That brings just the material cost to $18.20.

If I were to pay myself actual minimum wage (for the state of Virginia), I would charge $11 an hour to make the dragon. Time pay alone is $66.00.

Materials (18.20) + Hours worked (66.00) = Actual cost ($84.20)

$84.20  This is what I should be charging for a dragon. I under charge by $64.20.

Will I ever have a buyer for a little dragon for that cost, probably not. Do I have a loss every time I sell one? Absolutely, and I am ok with that. Will I ever raise the price? Maybe, I haven’t fully decided yet.

For me, selling crochet is not all about the money.It’s about seeing my customers happy faces and hearing the adventures my creations have been on.

 

 

Crochet Facts and Opinions

Some crochet (or other fiber arts) facts and some of my personal opinions on the topics.

Facts:

1. Crochet (well fiber arts as a whole) has quite a few benefits.
a. Reduces stress and anxiety
b. Increases serotonin levels
c. Can assist with relaxation, insomnia, self-esteem, and depression.

2. When crocheting, the brain releases serotonin that helps calm the mind and improve mood.

Opinions:

1. Crochet can cause aggravation and annoyance.

2. There is no such things as having to many patterns.

Crochet Hook to…the Mouth…..?

    Gynecological problems are not the only injuries to appear in the annals of the medicals books as having been caused by a crochet needle. They really only get worse from there. Surprised? You shouldn’t be. There’s also a lesson here about carelessness and clumsy children (don’t worry this one is just fine).

    A 4-year-old boy was admitted to the hospital in 2007 after falling down on a crochet needle, which was in his hand. The needle had gone through his mouth and got stuck. Attempts to remove it at home proved futile. This was a double sided crochet needle with one side lodged and the other sticking out of his mouth. 

    His symptoms included; bleeding from his mouth, there was no loss of consciousness, pain or giddiness. The crochet needle, protruding out from his mouth, had penetrated the soft palate. For those of you who don’t know the soft palate, also called palatal velum or muscular palate in mammals is a structure consisting of muscle and connective tissue that forms the roof or the rear portion of your mouth, or oral cavity. Go ahead I’ll pause while you look in the mirror to imagine a crochet needle getting stuck in the back of your throat…..3..2…1 

    Okay as we were saying…..

    He was afebrile and had no neurological deficits. X-ray of the head showed that one tip of the crochet needle had penetrated into the skull. CT scan with 3-dimensional reconstruction showed that the crochet needle had passed through the jugular foramen into the posterior fossa and the tip was embedded in the cerebellar parenchyma. Refer to the picture if you want a general idea about where any of those things are.

    The patient was taken up for an emergency right suboccipital craniectomy. A suboccipital craniectomy refers to a surgical procedure that is performed at the base of the brain in which a portion of the skull is removed to access the surgical objective. The portion of the skull is not replaced, instead, the area is covered with a synthetic substance. He was intubated in the supine position and operated on in the left lateral position. The cerebellum was removed and the tip of the crochet needle reached. The tip was cut with a small bone cutter and both fragments were removed.     Initially there was profuse bleeding from the entry wound in his mouth, which was controlled by pressure. There was no bleeding into the posterior fossa. Once the bleeding had stopped, he underwent usual closure. 

    Postoperatively, recovery from anesthesia was uneventful and there was no neurological deficit. He was started on broad-spectrum IV antibiotics and was closely monitored for 72 h for development of hematoma or infection. As he continued to remain asymptomatic, he was discharged from hospital. At 6 months of follow-up, the child was doing well and had no complaints related to his injury. 

The Tools of Crochet

So I’ve been debating how I’ve wanted to write this for awhile. There are so many of these lists out on the internet, some of them are more comprehensive than others. I’m going to attempt to keep this list somewhere between the simple and overly comprehensive.

There are 4 basic supplies I feel that every crocheter should absolutely have. Yarn, hooks, scissors, and yarn needles. There are other supplies, that I’ll get into later. Of those, a few are important but not absolutely necessary from the get go and the rest are, in my opinion, completely optional.

YARN:

There are enough basics on yarn, that it will be getting its own blog post soon.

HOOKS:

So at the most basic there are 2 types of crochet heads and 3 types of materials.

The hook heads are In-line and tapered. Note: One is not better that the other. Which head type you use is completely up to you. I’m partial to the tapered head, but I know crocheters who only use in-line heads. I do own both types. This photo, courtesy of www.dabblesandbabbles.com, show’s the visual difference between the two.

Material-wise, the majority of hooks are made from aluminum, wood or plastic. Very tiny headed hooks, meant for lace work, though they can be used for very tiny stitches, are made of steel. The aluminum hooks, at least here in the US, are either made by Susan Bates (In-line Head type) or Boye (Tapered Head type). Both of these can be found at most commercial craft stores. Wood hooks, usually bamboo or a hardwood and not as slippery as aluminum or plastic hooks and are best suited for slower crochet work. I own a set of rosewood hooks for this purpose. Plastic hooks tend to be in the larger hook sizes and I find them best for really young children who are first learning or when I have to fly somewhere as not all airlines approve of metal crochet hooks in carry-on baggage.

Hook sizing can get confusing since the US sizing is done with a combination of letters and numbers, and everywhere else does sizing in millimetres. The sizing in the US can also differ between manufacturers. The millimetre sizing however, is universal. Most patterns list the mm hook sizing rather than the US sizing, though there are some patterns that only list the US sizing. there are multiple hook conversion lists on the internet.

There is much more to hooks, but this is just the basics. If I get a request for it, I’ll write a whole blog post on the subject.

SCISSORS:

A good pair of scissors is a must. I use a standard sized pair, but a small pair will work just fine. Please make sure that these are sharp, as dull scissors can prevent a clean cut of the yarn and make it that much harder the thread in the ends once the project is finished.

YARN NEEDLES:

A yarn needle is always useful. They make sewing in the ends so much quicker, and depending on what you are doing, assembling pieces together. Yarn needles are also referred to as tapestry needles and darning needles. They can be either metal or plastic and they are also dulled at the point, rather than sharp the way a regular needle is.

Now for the optional crochet things.

This one, I consider important, but not absolutely necessary. A book on crochet stitches. I own a few and I do consult them from time to time. I’m not referring to a pattern book, though those are good to have to (I have over a dozen at this point and I get new ones every few months). A good crochet book will have a lot of basic crochet stitches, with written steps, diagrams of the layout, and a picture of the finished stitch. My favorite in my collection so far is 500 Crochet Stitches: The Ultimate Crochet Bible.

Things that are optional:

A hook case. A case is good, if you only have one set of hooks, though if you have many sets, or a lot of hooks, anything that can hold them all in one spot works too. I have a friend that has all of hers in an old coffee can. I believe she’s about to find something bigger as the can can just barely hold all of hers that she’s collected over the years. I keep all of mine in an old pringles can, as I have long, Tunisian hooks (more on those in a later post) in my collection.

A tape measure. By this, I’m referring to a sewing tape measure. This is used for figuring out gauging, though there are a few patterns that I’m aware of that tell you to crochet to a certain length rather than until you reach a certain row number.

Stitch markers. Some people use these, some people don’t. They are great for keeping track of stitch multiples on large projects, or for marking where the next round starts if you’re doing amigurumi. I personally don’t use them for that. I do own them, but I use them to hold a stitch if I’m putting the project down for awhile, as I know the hook may fall out of the project, of the yarn may get pulled on, and thus removing stitches, before I get back to it.

Row/Stitch counter. I, personally, don’t use them. I know people that do, and they love them. I don’t care for them. They keep track of your counting for you, mainly so you don’t have to.

Crochet materials storage: How you choose to store you yarn and tools is entirely up to you. I have two 27 gallon totes, one holds my extra amigurumi supplies and that other holds all of the products I’m made for my Etsy shop. I have a third one for when that first gets full. My tools and odds and ends are split between a 31 bag and a cardboard box and all of my yarn is kept in a canvas bin that I found on clearance at Burlington Coat Factory with what yarn I am currently using sitting in a farmers market bag sitting on top of the aforementioned canvas bin. This set up works for me, but my needs will probably be different that yours. Experiment a little and find what works for you. If you have a whole room to dedicate to it, awesome. If you don’t, that’s fine. I have a little corner of the living room with my bins being stored in the dining area just so I don’t have to keep going to the garage.

I would add more, but I feel like I’ve probably written enough for the moment as is. Please let me know if you have any questions, and I’ll try to answer them as best as I can.

Stay safe everyone, Liz